Philippe Dufour : when Simplicity wins
Beautiful things don’t ask for attention” – probably one of the most reposted quotes in the IG bios of teens – but in the case of Philippe Dufour, these words couldn’t be more spot on.
Referred to by many today as the greatest watchmaker of our time, Philippe Dufour began working for brands such as Jaeger Lecoultre, Gerald Genta and Audemars Piguet, before launching his own company in 1989 – with the first watches being presented in 1992 at Baselworld.
Throughout his career as an independent watchmaker, Dufour released three references, the Grande Sonnerie, the Duality and the Simplicity.
The Grande Sonnerie was based on a pocket watch project Dufour had worked on at Audemars Piguet – adjusted for a wristwatch.
The Duality takes the average of two balance wheels through a differential gear meshed with both balance wheels allowing for less error in the balance wheel’s measure of time. Only 9 of the 25 that were originally planned for this reference were ever made.
The simplicity is a time only watch – yes, that simple (hence the name) – and is the watch we’ll talk about today.
So why on earth is the Simplicity now a million dollar watch you ask ?
First and foremost, one must understand the creation process of Dufour’s timepieces – respecting traditional Vallée de Joux, every aspect of Dufour’s timepieces are hand-finished. Using techniques that have been used in the region for centuries, Dufour doesn’t only apply these techniques, he embodies them. Every part of the watch is meticulously crafted and then checked by the master himself. Infamous for being very tough on his apprentices, his level of quality control nearing perfection reflects this harshness – much appreciated by clients/collectors.
When Dufour launched his brand, he was one of the only Independent Watchmakers at the time, alongside Daniel Roth. Clients at the time weren’t used to the close relationship we now know between a watchmaker and his client. So for many collectors, this newfound relationship (and for many friendship) with the creator of their precious timekeeper – was a first.
Dufour was massively popular with the Japanese market – his first timepiece encased in a 34mm case a smaller proportion adored by the far eastern market. His proximity with Shellman Ginza also allowed for his collector-base to grow beyond his occasional visits to Japan. The proximity with his clients, many of whom Dufour has built personal relationships with, has created an atmosphere in which his clients/collectors/friends just outright do not want to sell their watches.
This point, combined with the fact Philippe Dufour only manages to create a mere 15-20 watches per year creates incredible scarcity in a market hungry for the work of one of the masters of modern horology.
Anyways, how is the watch day to day ?
At 34mm in diameter, this Simplicity wears very comfortably – sliding perfectly under any sleeve and is fitting in almost every day-to-day scenario I could imagine. Depending on the strap one chooses to fit on the watch, it can be dressed up for a formal setting in a tuxedo, or dressed down to wear with jeans and a hoodie.
Now, many are probably wondering what one should look out for when looking at the finished of a watch, and what make Dufour’s finishing (almost) unparalleled in the watch industry.
An easy “flex” for a watchmaker is adding internal angles in the design of ones bridges – Dufour not only incorporates three stunning internal angles, but adds three points in his movement – both of which are very difficult to finish consistently.
Another way to look at finished is looking at the consistency of the finishing, for example, whether or not the angle of the bevelling is the same throughout the whole bridge.
What really set Dufour apart at the time was the desire to create a watch with the utmost respect for traditional Vallée de Joux watchmaking. If you look at the market, there isn’t really anything that’s close to what Philippe Dufour has created, maybe Rexhep Rexhepi.. ?