Now, let’s have a deeper look at the four models and what sets them apart. According to serial numbers, reference 3413 appears to be the earliest one. It is also the rarest, with only six examples known. All are cased in yellow gold by Markowski, who manufactured the cases for the entire collection and is identified by the Key number 8 hallmarked inside the caseback. Soon after came the 3412, possibly the most groundbreaking of the lot: it’s an uneven triangle, with only three visible “lugs”; the strap, however, is a one-piece band that simply slides through the caseback. Almost as rare as the 3413, it was made in seven pieces, with a single one known in pink gold. The third and final prototype is the 3422, four-sided and with a prominent “ear” on the left side of the case. Again, less than ten pieces were made.
A different fate graced the fourth model, reference 3424. Apparently, it was Henri Stern’s favourite, and therefore made it to serial production - if less than forty examples can be considered as such, anyway. Similar to the 3422 at first glance, it also has four sides but is slimmer and more twisted. It’s not difficult to understand why the president of Patek had a sweet spot for this reference: while it retains all the unapologetic character of its siblings, it is by far the most balanced of the family; the slim profile and broad dial make it almost understated and absolutely timeless.
The 3424 is the only Asymmetric manufactured in all four precious metals; still, the most common is yellow gold, with only a handful made in pink, white or platinum. Dials can vary too, but the majority feature Albert’s signature “crosshair” design, a striking radiance of twelve thin lines rendered in engraved enamel. Some rare examples have an integrated mesh bracelet.
Today, shaped watches are seeing an unprecedented appreciation from the market; and it’s important to acknowledge that these rare gems created by Gilbert Albert paved the way for a future trend, predating even the coveted Cartier Crash by almost a decade. Looking back at them nearly seven decades after their creation is a valuable lesson on the value of good design, in watchmaking or elsewhere: the Patek Philippe Asymmetric watches continue to impress, inspire and attract collectors all over the world, and they will likely continue to do it forever.